Monday 14th July

Bad Belzig to Berlin.

Datum perficiemus munus.

Isn't it strange how one seems to sleep better in a proper bed rather than in a tent. A splendid night's sleep saw us again on the road just before eight. It would have been later but the Pension we were in refused to make us breakfast because we were the only two who wanted it! Thoroughly unloved we set off on the last leg of our journey. The R1 again took us through forests but this time with beautiful paved cycle ways. A quick stop in Bruck saw us eating our traditional breakfast of Pfannekuchen with hot chocolate and espresso. We also called in to the post office (we'd been looking for one for 3 days) to buy a stamp for Derek's daughter's birthday. It's on the way Helen!
We soldiered on with rather leaden legs until just before Potsdam we stopped for further refreshments.

 Onwards then to Potsdam where Anne and Jenny were waiting to offer encouragement for the last 25 miles of the journey.

After failing to get either of our wives to change places with us we trundled off towards Berlin. We came across a monument to Derek's new grandson (still to be named but we both feel confident Wilhelm 1 von Warendorf will feature somewhere).

As we drew closer to Berlin we were composing phrases for our final blog. It was going to read - 'the two gallant cyclists made their way through the Tiergarten towards the Brandenburg Gate, a fine example of man and machine in perfect harmony...'

Unfortunately the heavens opened and we cycled under the Brandenburg Gate in torrential rain. We arrived at the Hotel Melia like two drowned rats.

Todays mileage - 58.3

That seems to be all there is to say. We covered a total of 564 miles in 9 days and if we had just one single piece of advice to give anyone else who might wish to follow the R1 cycle route it would be this - don't EVER leave the borders of Holland.
We have three nights in Berlin before we return by train to Arnhem and from there home.

Ad victorium.
Acta est fabula plaudite.

Sunday 12th July

Near Wulfen to Bad Belzig.

Bibo ergo sum.

The first 45 minutes sleep last night was good. Unfortunately the next 4 and a half hours were interrupted by rowdy incomers, fireworks, heavy rock band, rowdy home goers, music getting louder and louder, full audience participation and finally the nutter who shook our tents. Suffice to say, we didn't sleep too well. Mind you we had been warned. The washing and toilet facilities left much to be desired and in the morning after they had been used by several hundred rock fans weren't to be desired at all. We left at 7.30.
As soon as we could we abandoned the R1 and picked up the Elbe Radweg which we followed joyfully.

This enabled us to reduce the mileage by such a significant amount that lunch was taken at Lutherstadt Wittenberg after 39 miles. We had planned this to be our overnight stop but could now move northwards towards Berlin to arrive there tomorrow, a day earlier. A further 23 miles saw us arrive in Bad Belzig. As there was no camping anywhere in the vicinity we forced ourselves to find a Pension for the night.
Exhaustion and insanity has set in and our legs are so full of lactic acid that our muscles are ceasing to function. Mind you at least Derek's eye is getting better.
An Italian restaurant humoured us for the early evening and now we intend to sleep for 12 hours.

Distance covered - 63.7 miles

Saturday 11th July.

Thale to near Wulfen.

Aut viam inveniam aut faciam.

Set forth again at 0800. After a jaw dropping near vertical start, the planned escape by courtesy of Pythagoras entailed taking the hypotenuse route from Thale to Gatesleben thereby missing out on miles of more forestry stages.

This route led us by chance through the unbelievably, astonishing town of Quedlinburg (look it up!).

 This off route cycling was a joy until we joined the R1 at Gatesleben.
After breakfast at the local supermarket we had no option other than to follow the map again. The route was a distinct improvement however compared to Holland! - (we loved Holland) - the unpaved surface saw us bouncing our meat-tendering way along yet more R1 to the town of Stassfurt.
The town was a complete contrast to Quedlinburg being somewhat run down and we quickly cycled through.
After more careful route selection, Nienburg on the R. Sarle offered us lunch.
Derek was by now softened up and I could take liberties down small country lanes. A bench stop saw him unconvinced and unsmiling......

....but his demeanor improved dramatically when he realised we had cut off about 7 miles off the route.

We eventually arrived at our intended campsite to find, only for the second time on this trip, that we could eat and buy beer. Our joy was short-lived as the receptionist told us it was 'party night' with live bands and fireworks. We decided to risk it as we were in the middle of nowhere with no viable alternative. Will report tomorrow on the results.
Total distance cycled - 59.2 miles.

Postscript.
Our diet for today is quite interesting.
Campsite - yogurt.
Breakfast - cheese bun and two jam donuts.
Lunch - eischololade, cream gooseberry cake.
Bench stop - nectarine covered in rice pudding (tub split in bag).
Supper - 2 bratwurst and two large beers.
It has not been easy to find eating places anywhere on this trip!

Friday 10th July

Goslar to Thale

Alea iacta est

After a good night's sleep we breakfasted in a gallery overlooking the courtyard of the Gasthaus. A 9.15 start via the tourist information office to purchase a map saw us immediately faced with a rough steep forestry track. European cycleway R1?

There is no way that this should be a route for tourist bikes loaded up with bikes and tents! However despite Derek's tears, in the true British bulldog spirit we accepted this insane challenge. We averaged just over 5 mph as we skidded, swerved and swore our way to Wernigerode. (22 miles in 3 hours 45 minutes). At last we emerged from the gloom and were presented with a view of our next destination.

Arriving at 1 o clock in this delightful small town, with its 16C Rathaus considered to the finest in Germany, splendid facade and superimposed windows, we sampled our first bratwurst of the trip.

To add injury to insult Derek was pinned against a railing when my carelessly parked bike fell onto him. He was being rescued by two concerned Germans as I sauntered back with my ice cream.
The next part of the route defies description. All that needs to be said is that we arrived at our campsite in Thale exhausted after yet more battles in ravines full of leaves still purporting to be the R1. We were not amused. Derek is at this very moment penning a letter of complaint to Angela Merkel.

Couldn't show the worst bits - too busy clinging on.

Over an evening meal and beers a plan gradually emerged to avoid tomorrow's forestry stages. We are going to find our own way to Berlin.

Today's mileage - 38.1 miles

We are having problems publishing photos because of poor internet connections. If we ever do complete the journey you will have to scroll back to view.

Thursday 9th July

Holzminden to Goslar

Morituri te salutamus.

The frequent heavy downpours during the night although disturbing our sleep didn't raise the River Weser's water level enough to wash us away.

We had to get up!
A brew of tea soon revived us and we were away by 7.50. An early breakfast after 12 miles was taken in Stadtoldendorf. There followed a wonderful morning's cycling through rolling countryside until after 38 miles we reached the lovely old town of Einbeck. In the Middle Ages the town had 700 breweries and supplied the whole of Germany with 'Einpokisches Bier' (now known as Bockbier and is said to be the strongest bier in Germany). Needless to say even though the church bells were just striking 12.00 we had to sample it.

If we had only known what was to follow we would have stayed and had a couple more. The hills started and the legs went! Chanting those famous words ' we have plenty of time, we can stop when we want, we will enjoy ouselves' we soldiered on. The final 15 miles of torture led us on rough forest tracks and silence reigned. Eventually Derek was heard to mutter 'blooming Nora this is supposed to be the road to St Petersburg not Whinlatter forest'.

No campsite was evident in our scheduled stop of Bornhausen so we pressed on and were eventually rescued from the depths of the forest by a kindly mountain biker. Once we were again on track we skidded and stumbled towards Goslar. Exhausted we decided against searching for the campsite and opted instead for a Gasthaus in the centre of town. Here a wonderful old lady rushed down stairs, vigorously shook our hands and showed us to our splendid room. Derek then offered these words... 'that was an interesting experience that I would like to try again sometime - preferably by Landrover'.

A walk round the old town centre revived the spirits.

Miles cycled - 68.3

Wednesday 8th July

Stukenbrock Senne to Holzminden

Dum Spiro Spero

A bit of a wet night meant a cool and very damp breaking of camp. Seeing as we (Derek!) lost the wash house keys we packed up and snuck out incognito so were on the road by 07.30.

Every morning we spend the first hour of cycling chanting the mantra 'remember we can go slow and stop when we want and enjoy ourselves'. This seems to appease Derek  greatly and this morning, after 13miles, as we were trying to find our way back on to the route we magically passed a stehcafe. We stopped ate breakfast and enjoyed ourselves.
Eventually, as the 20 mile mark was passed our mountain stage began. We steadily climbed with minimal groaning until we reached the magnificent spectacle of the Externstein. These huge sandstone slabs seem to rise out of nowhere. We stopped, looked, climbed and did some more enjoying.

Although the weather was about 15 degrees cooler and we were occasionally doused with rain, we had the wind behind which made for a most enjoyable route. A double lunch break, (two sandwiches and two drinks), was taken in the pretty little town of Nieheim. There followed a fifteen mile section of marvelous riding which culminated in a 7 mile descent into Hoxter on the River Weser. Although both Derek and I had cycled the Weser Radweg two years ago neither of us had any recollection of visiting this beautiful fachwerk town.

Derek's hourly reminder that he was a grandad twice over resulted in us visiting
Abtei Corvey - an ancient monastery dating from 862- and downing more local pils in yet another celebration.

As we cycled along the Weser towards Holzminden we not only suffered a torrential downpour but also our daily 'spiraling out of control' event. This is where after taking in alcoholic sustenance we lose our route and add 4 miles to our daily mileage. Even this could not dampen the belief that this had been our most enjoyable day's cycling EVER.
We set up our tents on the bank of the river and after another celebratory dunkel beer walked into town for a pizza.

On the bridge over to town we both experience a 'Holzminden moment'. There on the riverside was the huge warehouse where two years ago Derek had thrown a paddy because I wouldn't stop for lunch. How things have changed since then. I am a new man and Derek talks to me most of the time.

Miles cycled - 63

Tuesday 7th July

Warendorf to Stukenbrock-Senne

Nova autem nativitate.

We are a grandad!!! The happy news was relayed to us in the early hours. Happy days and congratulations to Helen and Steve.

We were on the road by 8.00 and as normal enjoyed our first 20 miles of relaxed cycling in very humid conditions. We then enjoyed a celebratory breakfast, in Marienfeld in honour of newly born Wilhelm 1st von Warendorf. Such was our joy our breakfast not only consisted of two hot chocolates, espressos, sandwiches and cream plunderstuck but also lasted an unprecedented 57 minutes. Not that Derek noticed - in celebration, the cafe offered free WiFi - he spent the whole time glued to his phone communicating to all and sundry. In a momentary pause I managed this photo.

Our prolonged stay finally ended when Derek downloaded a picture of the said Wilhelm (apparently he looks just like Derek) and whooped with joy before vaulting onto his bike and cycled off a happy man.
Our ride continued through the beautiful river gardens of Rheda where after 45 miles we again paused for a photo of the fountains.
Eventually we stopped for lunch which consisted of two beers each. This then led to a raucous 16 mile finale. Derek was very complimentary about my navigational skills which occasionally saw us following the actual route. Our day ended in a rather grotty campsite but more beer and food kept our spirits high.
We are both in fine condition for the first mountain stage tomorrow. Derek has an eye infection, stiff shoulder and near dislocated elbow. I have multiple mosquito bites, cramp and clean teeth. (new brush was purchased yesterday).

Magic Moment. ( besides the new arrival)
Two water voles swimming in the stream by the tents.

Total miles cycled today - 61.2

Monday 6th July

Sudlohn to Warendorf

Arrived for breakfast at 7.30 After a fitful night's sleep. Derek is expecting his second grandchild's birth to be announced any second. Unfortunately my phone is the only one that can be used for communication so I am also on edge. No news from hospital yet but will keep all blog followers posted!
Set off at 9.00 and continued our leisurely pace through gentle rolling countryside.
I am managing to 'go slower, stop more often and enjoy the ride'. Derek is still rather incredulous that the new regime is lasting into the second day. (I am a little fearful because yesterday Derek suddenly announced he was stopping for a rest at THIS bench. If he continues to take such liberties and sees my new outlook as a weakness then we may never make it through the mountain stages).
Anyway, I digress. Today was beautiful, mostly sunny with temperatures reaching 30 degrees and a gentle breeze helping us along.
We stopped about every 20 miles for a prolonged break. Firstly at Darfeld where we ate plunderstuck and coffee in the local K&K supermarket,

secondly at Havixbeck where eiscafe and eisschololade were greatfully consumed

and finally in Munster where Derek made himself 'a little green about the gills' as he stuffed down an enormous strawberry sundae. I was most restrained and ordered my customary espresso.

After visiting the Dom and Rathaus in Munster we made our way out of town and decided to continue for a further 20miles to a campsite in Warendorf. This is 15 miles further than planned but will give us some leeway later.
Rather tired as we set up camp and home cooked food was on the menu as we couldn't be bothered to cycle into town.
Problems with photos but hopefully these will follow tomorrow.

It is now 22.00 and no new arrival has been announced. Tune in tomorrow folks.

Total miles cycled today - 64.9          

Sunday 5th July

Arnhem to Sudlohn

Audentes fortuna iuvat.

After a wonderful nine hours sleep we woke up at 0630 refreshed and ready to go.

Derek putting shower keys in safe

Wheels were rolling by 0740 and we were immediately on magnificent Dutch cycling paths wending their way through the Veluezoom National Park.
We love Holland.

Derek was astounded as, true to my word, I suggested we go off route to visit the oldest village in Holland, Bronkhorst. This information was given by Dutch cyclist on the ferry crossing the River Ijssel. Not only did we stop but we sat, had coffee and tea and relaxed. We had only done 22 miles. (Mind you we didn't know at this point that the day would require another 60 miles of cycling).
We LOVE Holland.

Despite a couple of heavy showers we enjoyed a further 23 miles of idyllic cycling ( we love Holland) and arrived for lunch at the lovely town of Borculo. We sampled our first beer of the day together with a 'special broodjes'.
WE LOVE HOLLAND.

After 65 miles we arrived at our selected campsite as shown on the map only to find it closed down! We love Holland???
We entered Germany and as there were no other campsites within a 30 mile radius we decided to head to Vreden and find a hotel. No hotels in Vreden so bit the bullet and cycled a further 8 miles to Stadtlohn. Unfortunately a religious convention had booked out the only hotel. The proprietor kindly directed us to the nearest accommodation available which happened to be 5 miles SW of our route. We eventually knocked on the door of a bike friendly hotel in Sudlohn where beer and food were served.
We love Germany.

Total miles cycled today - 81.9

Saturday 4th July

Dunkirk to Camping Kooningsveld Arnhem.
(by van)

Graviora manent  (more severe things await)

Disembarked at 0630 to join an immediate traffic jam within the port. Then followed a long hot day on the road which included more traffic jams and a total motorway closure.
Before arriving at our campsite this evening we did manage a .....

Cultural Highlight.
This was the Airborne Museum at Oosterbeek which detailed the story of 'The Bridge too Far'. This explained the failed allied attempt to capture the bridge at Arnhem.
We leave the van here for 12 days as the Grand Depart starts at 0800 tomorrow.

Friday 3rd July

Ad initium (at the beginning)


Skelton to Dover via Rutland Water.
(405miles in the van)

Set off to pick up Derek for 11am. This week he has been on a crash weight loss programme - otherwise known as gastroenteritis - so finding his bike ready packed and waiting on the driveway was a nice surprise.
Made our way to Rutland Water stopping at Wetherby services for Derek's first bathroom break. Whilst enjoying my double espresso I told Derek I wasn't taking my coffee pot because this year I was going to 'go slower, stop more often (for coffee), and enjoy the experience'. Derek was flabbergasted and wondered what the hell kind of trip this was going to be.
My resolution lasted only until I drained the last of my coffee and began thinking of the consequences. Have decided to do an about-turn. Coffee pot and coffee from the van are now stashed in my side pannier. I am feeling better already.


Prologue.
Arrived at Rutland Water at 1645 for a circuit of the reservoir.

The 23 mile round was completed on a combination of rough and some tarmac track in just over 2 hours at an average speed of 10.3 miles. What would it have been like fully loaded? We will no doubt soon find out.
True to my new resolution we had a cultural stop at St Edmund's church Egleton. A 12th century church with marvelous Romanesque carvings and a double chamfered round arch.

Supper was taken at the White Horse, Empingham washed down with a pint of Grainstore Rutland bitter.

Proceded on our way to Dover where chaos reigned. After waiting 2 hours we managed to check in on the 2am ferry which eventually left at 03.15. We were just about to settle down for a couple of hours sleep when the Italian school party decided that we looked safe enough to sit next to.
Roll on tomorrow.